Automatic cabin lights?

The light switch is set at door right? if not maybe blown fuse?

 

Bob,

This may be a stupid response, as I know that you know the car better than most of us, but is it possible that the cieling switch for the lights (the one sliding switch with three positions (On, Door Activated, and Off), was accidentally slid to the Off position?

That had recently happened to me, when my wife needed the interior lights on, so we slid it to On. Then when done, we apparently flipped right past the middle setting 'Door Activated', and set it to Off. Later, when exiting the car, the lights remained off. I only discovered why the next time I got in, and realized what happened. Could this be the same for you? Otherwise, a fuse sounds likely, if none of the doors triggers the light, and your switch is set to the middle position.

Otherwise, if it only does not operate with one door, it would seem to indicate an issue with the pin trigger switch at the door, which while I have not searched for it on my car, I assume would be pretty visible.

 

Did you lock the doors with the FOB?

 

What really amazes me is when I stand beside the car, FOB in pocket, the interior lights go on, to show me the snake hiding in the car, I guess.

 

They're not smart enough to wear masks, and they're the same thing.

 

Just thought I should warn everyone who hasn't noticed, the hatch area light also has a switch. It's easy to leave it in the always on position as it's a rocker switch and can be "bumped" to the on position (not sure if the 2010 IS the same as the GII but just in case). It's dim enough that you can't tell it's on in daylight, especially if you have the cargo hiding "horizontal window blind" in place (cargo cover).

Don't the GIII interior lights turn off regardless of switch position after a number of minutes (10-20)? I think I remember reading that somewhere.

 

No, the cabin lights do NOT turn off automatically. I just had this experience. A neighbor warned me 10 minutes ago. I had forgotten them switched on since yesterday night, almost 24 hours!!!
Thankfully the door unlocked with the fob as usual and the car started as usual. I have a digital voltmeter which can be plugged in the lighter under the central console. With Power button ON and ICE working the indicator showed 16,9. With Power button at ACC position it showed 12,8. What the gurus have to say about this? Did I escape further problems??

One more question: What is the source for charging the 12V battery? the ICE or the main battery?

Thanks

 

The 12V battery is charged and the system powered by a circuit in the inverter, getting power from the traction battery. So the engine doesn't have to be running, but you have to be in "D" or "P" with the "ready" light on. "N" won't cut it! No charging there.

Ultimately of course, the power actually comes from the ICE via MG1, but we could argue for days (months, even ) about where the power comes from when the ICE is running.

If your battery measures 11.5V or more with the car off for a few hours (measure under the hood at the boost point) it's ok. If it's below 11V you could have a problem. It takes several hours in "ready" (and not in "N") to charge the 12V battery if it was drained. If you do several drives over a few days of 30 min or more it will gradually recover. Just be sure to not leave lights on any more.

As Tideland stated, it's the headlamps that will kill the battery quickly. The interior lights take a long time to do so.

 

I have also experienced this problem with the switch accidentally getting pushed into the "wrong" position. It happened again while my brother-in-law was keeping my car for me while I was on a trip. He said they discovered the lights were on for two days! Fortunately, the battery was still ok and he found out how to turn the lights off. Maybe this configuration is not the best? It seems very easy to accidentally hit that switch and get results you didn't want.

 

Are you sure about that? Certainly in N the traction battery won't charge, as the engine won't run. But I believe that the 12V battery will be charging from the traction battery. I think the car just needs to be in Ready.

That said, it's still not an appropriate way to charge the battery, as the traction battery will discharge in a half hour or so, supplying power to the various electronics throughout the car, and be unable to charge itself from the engine.

 

I wasn't going to go there as it would just confuse the issue. But you've just done that.

DON'T use "N" except for carwashes. If you aren't moving for awhile you should be in "P". Except in traffic, when it's "D" with your foot on the brake.

 

I know for fact that door triggered is timed. I don't think the constant on is timed. The "ON" is usually grounded right at the switch and not BCM controlled.