More Warning Lights

We were driving in the mountains today, and for the second time we got the master warning, the Check engine and the Hybrid system warning. Last time the dealer pulled the code and said it was the battery cooling fan. I cleaned the fan and verified that it did work. This time we also got the Brake and the VSC warnings. I have a hard time believing all these systems failed at once. We took the car home ASAP. It ran fine, with no change in MPG. But the air conditioning didn't work. Any idea what could have caused all these problems at once. The car has 154k miles and is out of warrantee.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Jim

 

Thank you Patrick,
I noticed your post about replacing the pump. Looks pretty straghtforeword if you don't mind a few skinned knuckles. Where is the bleed valve located ?
I waited for the car and the outside temp to cool off and drove the car again. The VSC and Brake light were off and the AC works. But the master, check engine and hybrid lights were still on. I suspect I'll need to reset them. Is this done by disconnecting the aux battery?
Thanks again for all the help.
Jim

 

I checked the pump last night with the car on. I could not hear the pump and did not see turbulance in the reservoir. But when I put my finger on the pump I felt a steady vibration like the pump was running. Seems like it would be a good Idea to read the code. Will an "auto parts store grade" reader work or do I need to take it to the dealership? Since they mis-diagnosed the problem last time I am reluctant to pay them to do it again.
Thanks,
jim

 

I was messing around with the pump this morning. It was definately running. I was surprised by how much it would move. It's like the rubber shock mounts are nearly gone and it is held in place mostly by the hoses. Still no sign of coolant moving in the reservior. Then I noticed the pump had stopped running. It shows all the symptoms of a bad pump so I think I will replace the pump, reset the lights and hope for the best. I would really like to know what the codes say but the toyota charged me $120 to read the code last time and gave me the wrong diagnosis.
Thanks again for the help. i'll do another post after replacing the pump.
Jim

 

I borrowed a code reader from a friend and read a generic P0A93 and a Toyota specific C1818. I've confirmed that the Inverter cooling pump is intermittent so I suspect it is related to that or to an inverter overheat. Is there a complete list of codes available?

 

Hi All,
The C1818 was a mistake. Disregard that. I just finished changing out the inverter cooling pump. 1 hour and 15 minutes... not too bad. All thanks to Patrick's GREAT instructions! Thank you! It is a tight squeeze in there. The electrical plug was a bear to get unplugged. I waited until I had the pump loose so I could rotate it and it was still very difficult to unplug. I used needle nose pliers to squeeze the latch to release it. I also has a hard time getting the bracket bolt that sits below the pump re-started. It was tricky getting the pump out between the inverter and the radiator too. Otherwise it was not a bad job. You need to be accustomed to working in tight spaces if you are going to do it yourself. Much of the time you can barely see the part you are working on. I didn't have time to buy the pump mail order so I got it from the local dealer. They gave me the last one out of their stash normally reserved for the service department. They have 6 on backorder. Sounds like they really go through them.