Hi I have a 2001 prius with more than 200k miles that acted wired. It did not turn off on stop lights but instead turned on and off repeatedly with very short intervals. I thought it may be the HV battery so: I just changed the HV battery with a complete set of 2005 modules. I used all the 2005 modules and completed the remaining with the good modules from my 2001 ones (the ones that had over 7.5 v ) ( I know I did an awkward job). Now the car has problem turning on, it sometimes turns on and runs but it runs weird. It does not accelerate, sometimes cannot run on R (reverse), and all the red triangle and the engine lights are on. Yesterday after deleting the codes, it acted normal for a while (everything was normal. I even had the guts to drive it in the freeway and it ran perfect) but today the engine keeps running and the green arrow on the monitor continues pointing to the battery even though the battery is full charged and full green! it does not run on R again. Before changing the modules, I tested the modules and it had more than 10 showing less than 4V so I thought I am doing the right thing changing the modules with the G2 kind. But now I am thinking there may have been something else other than the HV battery causing this problem that still exists. Any idea? Has anyone had the same problem?
Have you checked the 12 volt battery? Many threads here point to odd symptoms when the 12 volt battery dies.
if the vehicle turns on.. it's not the 12v.. most 12v symptoms show when the car doesn't start... did you check your hv battery connector. something about plugging it in.. turning it 90 and fastening something?.... it sounds like it turns on just fine... but doesn't drive..
I am wondering how you managed to connect the 2G modules to the remaining Classic modules. I assume that you are not using the original busbars. If 10 out of 38 original modules were clearly bad, my guess is that the remaining modules were in marginal condition and that their condition is noticeably different compared to the 28 from the 2005 donor vehicle. Therefore I'd recommend that you obtain 10 more 2G modules, use the correct busbars, and see what happens. Good luck.
You will need to rebuild the pack correctly. You'll also need a smart, battery charger that can handle NiMH batteries to equalize the charges. Also, you'll need to check the sense wires. It may be faster and cheaper to buy a Re-InVolt pack and send your traction battery pack back. Bob Wilson
I renewed the 12V battery. It started like normal in the beginning. Then, all the red triangle and the engine lights went on again and the car cannot backup (R) anymore (it only kicks, but does not back-run ). The car speed is better though and running the car on D has no problem. There should be something other than the batteries not working well. the monitor shows the battery to be in full charge at all time (super full I may add!) Where are the sense wires? Thanks for your time Bob.
Hi merdad, I think it should still be the HV batteries problem. Backup (R) is all electric only, but your HV batteries can't provide power to MG2, that's why it wouldn't move. Forward drive (D) may still run cos' slow acceleration need not involve the HV batteries, ICE can provide the power needed, albeit a little sluggish. The arrow is always towards the HV batteries (charging) even though it is full and refuses to discharge (I had experienced it myself). The sense wires are on the busbars facing the front of the car. Be sure to check for open/short circuits. It is also not a good idea to mix G1 & G2 batteries due to different internal resistance. G2 has lower resistance than G1, so you will end up having uneven voltages between the blocks. This may cause the Battery ECU to request HV ECU to fully charge the HV Batteries to try to equalize the voltage. During this equalization period, the Battery ECU may inhibit discharge. I agree with Patrick's to get more G2 modules.
Thanks for all the advice OK, I am going to check the modules again today. How do I check the sensors? I read in another post that they should read at least 2v ? how do I check that? I cannot afford to buy more G2 modules so I am going to stick with the ones I have. (28 of the modules are G2 type and only 10 of them are G1 type and I picked the ones which had the highest voltage = more thar 7.5v). I will check for any corrosion or short circuits.The only code I got was p3030. The engine light, red triangle, and break light are all on. And the car cannot accelerate more than 15-20 miles per hour now (a new thing that happened yesterday). What else do you think I need to check for while I have the battery out and exposed again? Thanks
Thanks everyone I cleaned all the bus bars on the battery using sand paper and put everything back together again It is running perfect with no faulty codes whatsoever!!! (I still have 10 of the old modules mixed with 28 newer ones and the computer has not detected anything yet (knock the wood!!!) cheeeers!:rockon::cheer2:
That's great! How about some photos showing the new and old modules together. I thought that the terminals were at different heights, so that it would not be easy to use the busbars with a mix of old and new.
Here are photos from both sides of the battery: At one side the busbar folded nicely but on the other side the plastic cover cracked but it still is holding tight.
I'm impressed! Are you running the traction battery without the original shell cover? Does it still fit? Bob Wilson
The old modules are smaller in length than the new ones so I did not have any problems putting the shell on. The car is running perfectly with no warning lights on.
