Slow leak, 4/32, right rear tire

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by bwilson4web, Apr 27, 2010.

  1. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I had a slow leak develop in my right rear tire over the past month. I'd rotated the front and back last month with the front wear at 6/32 and rear at 4/32 ... I was slow to rotate them last fall. But Firestone says the leak is in the non-repairable part. So the question is what to do:

    • Stop-leak/self repair
    • Buy a pair and replace full-size spare
    Stop-leak/self repair

    I have access to a shop with tire repair equipment. I could get an inside patch; locate the leak; and fix it myself. At the rate the front tires wore, I should get another two years out of these tires, ~70-80k miles.

    Given it is a slow leak, I could try the latex inflation systems. Lower the air pressure and use one of the quick fix tire systems and inflate the tire to normal 32 psi and do some high speed driving to 'seal' the leak. Come back and inflate the tire to proper pressure. The problem is the sticky latex might gum up my tire pressure gauge.

    We used this on our minivan when I discovered the spare had a slow leak and no pressure at 3:00 AM Monday morning. I'd pulled into a quick-market and having nothing to lose, used a can on the spare. We got home and I repaired the tire the next week. No long term use of the latex, quick-fix system. Anyone have experience to share?

    Replace Pair

    Since June 2008, I've been conducting an experiment with oversized, Sumitomos:
    Column 1 Column 2 Column 3 Column 4 Column 5
    0 size rev/min comment
    1 175/65R14 919 Original size but indicated speed was 1% high.
    2 175/70R14 886 Slight steering stability improvement 3% low.
    3 185/70R14 867 Wider more drag 5% low.
    4 195/70R14 849 Widest and 7% low.
    Sumitomo T4s

    Even though I've been adjusting for the larger diameter tire in the mileage records, there is no evidence of improved efficiency. Drag is drag and regardless of the tire rotation speed, we must pay the piper.

    The lower indicated speed can lead the driver to faster true speeds and higher drag. I'm the only driver of the 03 Prius so I typically calculate the difference and adjust. But that happens when I remember to adjust. In fact, I suspect I may have forgotten the times when I might have failed to adjust. I really need some way to get a calibrated speed ... perhaps a GPS unit. Perhaps it is time for a full vehicle data recording system. . . . a fun project.

    I do like the improved steering stability of the oversized tires. If by going larger I can achieve even greater stability ... this would be a good thing.

    Conflicted

    Being frugal, I like fixing the failed tire and getting another couple of years of service out of the set. I've gotten ~30k miles of service out of this set so reaching closer to ~70-80k miles is appealing. Repair cost is nominal, sweat equity, and defer tire experiments another year.

    I'm not too thrilled with the latex solution except to extent tire life while a total data recording system is set up. This would let me accurately document before and after performance ... in fact all critical vehicle performance.

    I also like the idea of testing the extreme edge of NHW11 tires, the 195/70R14. Putting them on the rear for another year and replacing the worn-out, full-size spare makes sense. Then I can swap them with the front to evaluate: steering stability and fuel efficiency effects.

    Thoughts?

    Bob Wilson
     
  2. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    I'm not inclined to fool around with defective tires. I suppose it depends on the type of driving you do. If you spend any amount of time in traffic I would replace the tires and be done with it.

    Tom
     
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  3. dogfriend

    dogfriend Human - Animal Hybrid

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    When I had a non repairable puncture in one of the OEM tires at 15k, I replaced two of them and put the new ones on the rear until the other two were worn out on the front.

    I like being frugal too, but there are limits to my frugality and tires are one of the limits.
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Bob,

    Typically an unrepairable tire has a hole near the sidewall where the tire body is thin. I agree with the group that you should replace the unrepairable tire for the sake of your and your family's safety.

    If the tire has 4/32" tread left and cost $100 to begin with, then you are giving up 25% of useful tread life since new passenger tire tread usually starts at 10/32" and must be replaced at 2/32", when the wear bars become evident.

    That amounts to ~$25 of value; or ~$50 if you replace two worn tires. I don't think it is a good trade-off to attempt saving $50 while increasing the risk of a blowout causing a serious accident.

    I recall the last set of tires on my 2001 was 195-width, but I think they were 195/60R14. They were OK. In general I would expect poorer mpg with wider tires.
     
  5. tochatihu

    tochatihu Senior Member

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    Voting for replacement. wear bars represent the legal minimum, but wet traction is already falling rapidly at 4/32. a few (graphical) studies on this have been posted.

    I'm also a fan of cheap, but it does not trump tire traction.
     
  6. Fstr911

    Fstr911 Member

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    Life is too short and the Prius is too pretty to drive on a compromised tire. Stuff happens.

    If you are confident with the diagnosis install a pair of new tires.

    If you question the diagnosis get a second opinion.
     
  7. bedrock8x

    bedrock8x Senior Member

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    I suggest to verify the leak is on the side wall by putting the wheel under water or spray soapy water over the tire. If it is a very slow leak, a few pounds a month, it is unlikely there is a puncture. My experience it is either the valve stem is not tighten, or the beam of the tire is nn longer air tight on the rim. Try to tighten the valve stem for the first case or remove the tire and remount it.
    If it is a puncture on side wall, then a tire replacement is needed because it cannot be repair permanently.
     
  8. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Hey folks, calm down. The leak is so slow I can simply top off the tire when the pressure sensor cap shows a problem. I haven't seen the leak but will before moving forward. What bothers me is how it seemed to happen so soon after having the tires rotated. I didn't have that problem when I last rotated my own tires . . .

    I still have a full size spare from the last tire change and the leaky tire is now an unpowered, trailing, rear tire. This is the commuting car as we use the 2010 for family trips. Still, I appreciate your economic analysis:

    • $50-56 - per tire cost, not counting shipping and mounting
    • $20 - mount the tires
    The area I'm interested in is moving the 42 mph hybrid threshold higher. The larger diameter tire will move the 42 mph threshold up to 45 mph. Now this may not seem like much but it means a little faster in hybrid mode. But I need to accurately know the vehicle speed without the mental exercise. The good news is I can swap the front and rear tires to change the drive diameter and move the hybrid speed.

    My plan is to use a Garmin GPS for the speedometer. Then use a Graham scanner or equivalent to capture engineering data. This will let us quantify the effects of tire diameter change.

    Bob Wilson
     
  9. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    It is relative to the other three tires and may be closer to 5 psi per month. I haven't quantified it yet. I took to Firestone in the hope it was a regular puncture. Their diagnosis was a surprise and I'll use the soapy water test in the morning.

    Bob Wilson
     
  10. jk450

    jk450 New Member

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    If the leak is indeed in the non-repairable area - either sidewall or shoulder - then it's time to take everyone's advice. Replace the tire for the sake of the other drivers on the road.
     
  11. DaveinOlyWA

    DaveinOlyWA 3rd Time was Solariffic!!

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    doesnt the tire come with a warranty that would cover a prorated cost of replacing the tire?? especially one that "cannot be repaired" i am guessing by the slow leak that its a sidewall or bead problem.

    how slow is the leak? do you have one of those 12 volt air compressors? that is what i would use to judge the repair or replace option.

    at 5 PSI a month, u could really run it until its time to replace. i had a slow leak in the SPM and being the "on the ball" guy that i am, it was probably 3 months by the time i got around to getting it fixed and i had to air it up at least twice a week so was not an extremely convenient thing to put off.
     
  12. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    It is too early to tell but with the pressure caps, it is easy enough to monitor. My only regret is not titling the thread "Very slow leak." The irony is a monthly pressure loss of 1-1.5 psi per month is also a slow but nearly universal 'leak.'

    Bob Wilson
     
  13. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The last tire top-off was 4/27 and today, I noticed the pressure cap is showing low. These are 50 psi pressure caps so I'm probably around 38-40 psi . . . and it is about time to top off the gas tank. Also, I now have a Garmin 265WT mounted, which provides bluetooth and GPS speedometer and trip meter.

    I'll top off the tank tonight and reset the Garmin trip record. Next week I'll order a pair of oversize tires from Tire Rack and do the switch and alignment check. I'll probably swap the casing for my spare since the low wear of the 'good tire' will make a better spare.

    For those interested in the Sumitomo T4 tire specifications:

    • 175/65R14 - Toyota's replacement tire, 1019 lbs max weight, 919 revs/mile, 5-6" rim width
    • 175/70R14 - Current tires soon to be rear, 1102 lbs max weight, 886 revs/mile (~3% speedometer error) 4.5-6" rim width
    • 195/74R14 - Next pair, 1321 lbs max weight, 849 revs/mile (~7% speedometer error,) 5-6.5" rim width
    Without the GPS speedometer, this would be an impractical experiment.

    Thoughts?

    One early test will be a high-speed drive over a speed bump. There had been one report of some wider tires, Yokohamas(?) not clearing the wheel wells on bumps. If this is the case, I want to find out early. I'll probably put them on the rear since I don't want to compromise steering in this test. Once I know they clear the rear wheel wells, I'll run them for a tank to get an idea of the baseline MPG. I'll then swap them to the front and again, run a tank and some benchmarks.

    Bob Wilson
     
  14. XRinger

    XRinger Member

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    Same problem with our 2012 'C2'.. Slow leak. Staple the size of a small needle went in at the edge,
    where the sidewall meets the thread. Car has less than 7,000 miles on it.. :(
    Gas station said no way..

    I wonder how much the dealership will charge us for a new tire?
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    I've done a couple of plug repairs, both times in the "non-repairable" zone, about an inch from the edge of tread. I picked up a good quality plug repair kit, with two diameters of plugs. Followed the instructions, no problems.
     
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  16. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Bob,

    Sorry to be late to your discussion. I have had slow leaks that were at the bead due to corrosion/flaking paint on old alloy rims. Taking off the tire (mark orientation and wheel weight locations), wire brushing the rims and using sealant (black goo) at the bead solved the problem on multiple tires and two older vehicles.

    JeffD
     
  17. XRinger

    XRinger Member

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    98% of this discussion isn't new.. ;)

    I've had those kinds of leaks on my older cars.. But, my 2009 Ford Escape has these big beautiful alloy wheels and don't leak down much at all..

    I'm horrified to see that something so thin, that stuck 7mm into our Prius tire is leaking..
    One would think it would take at least a 10mm deep pin-prick to start a leak..
    [​IMG]
     
  18. XRinger

    XRinger Member

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    I found this: www.amazon.com/Dynaplug-Hybrid-Tubeless-Repair-Limited/dp/B000EXSER4
    Seems like it might work on a pin hole, if I ice-picked it open a little bit..

    I like the idea of the plug being inside the probe. Keeps it away from the tire's rubber, until the last second..

    What I don't like is that little brass tip end up dropping off inside the tire and making noise.. :(
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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  20. XRinger

    XRinger Member

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    I've used that type before (years ago). With the open-ended sewing needle type insertion probe.
    That threading hole was the weakness in the one I had. The sides were so thin and weak,
    they just folded up the second time I used the kit. I have a newer kit in the garage, but the supplies are 10+ years old..

    I'm going to avoid that style this time, and go with the DynaPlug tool and hope for the best.
    If it doesn't work out, I'll try the BlackJack next time around.
     
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