3rd gen vs. 2nd gen questions thread

While I own a 2010 Prius V, Navi, and have never owned a 2nd Gen Prius, I will do the betst to answer the ones that I know… (I inserted numbers on your questoins, to keep track.)

1- Yes. If the cabin is cooler than the ICE, it will cycle the ICE in order to maintain temperature set by climate control system thermostat. If you turn off the HVAC system during this time, and you are parked, (or not demanding Iceacceleration), the ICE will shut off (assuming it was been warmed up) Then, if you turn the HVAC system back on, it will engage the ICE as needed to maintain.
2 - No scan guage, so I cannot answer this.)
3- Yes, the SKS system will still recognize the fob in the vehicle, and should sound an alarm.
4- Unknown
5- Just like on the HS-250h, sometimes you can, sometime you cannot. (What is the benefit of this?)
6- As this has similar system 'brains', the messages sounds very similar on both. Sometimes you are told why it's unavailable, and othertimes simply told 'unavailable'.
7- I have seen it said it was 46, but I have been able to get my car over 50 on a long straight country road without traffic, using only EV, and not ICE. (At least displayed on the MFD - I do not have scanguage to confirm this).
8- Unknown.
9- Unknown.

 

Does the cabin use a traditional coolant type heater? I thought I had read someplace that it used electric resistance heating.

 

I'll try:

1. Yes - turning off the fan allows the engine to turn off if the water temperature is higher than 103F, regardless of the heater control's temperature setting (I like it warm so I generally leave my temperature set to 86F).
2. The temperature cut-off boundary changes depending on whether or not you're in ECO mode. In ECO mode I believe it cycles between 123F - 136F (those numbers may be off by a bit since I haven't measured this is a while), regardless of the fan setting. In Normal mode, it may be the same (or it may be slightly higher by a couple of degrees or so), unless you turn the fan speed up just past half way. Then the temperature fluctuates between about about 131F (not really sure of the exact lower number) and 148F. I think PWR mode works the same as Normal mode.
3. Yes, the SKS works the same way.
4. Don't know.
5. In my opinion, the EV button is fairly useless. You'd like to use it to jockey the cars around on the driveway without starting the engine, but it always seems to start up within about 15 seconds, and if it's cold enough it starts almost immediately.
6. During the summer, I think I was able to select EV mode within the first 15 seconds or so and stop the engine from starting up. But it had to be quite warm outside or EV mode would not engage (don't know the temperature), and even then it would exit EV mode after about 10 MPH since the engine was not up to temperature. In general, it seems that the car is always giving some excuse as to why it won't go into/stay in EV mode. Sounds like you already know most of them.
7. The times I've tried to use EV, I've found it always seems to exit with an "excessive speed" message after 25 MPH, even with a warm engine.
8. I've seen 130 AMPS coming out of the battery (usually for engine start) and I've seen 83 AMPS going into the battery during braking regeneration.
9. I typically see about 2 to 2.5 AMPS pulled from the battery while sitting idle in "D" with the engine stopped.

 

All Prius have the traditional heater core which is heated by engine coolant, as well as supplemental PTC electric heaters.

 

#5) yes...

i know everyone else said no and they are probably right.

have a nice day!!
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ok, maybe i should explain;

we all know the real advantage the Prius has over other wannaby hybrids is their battery management system and how it integrates into the Synergy drive system. that is why the Prius is bigger, faster, AND more economical than its competitors.

*the EV mode works immediately upon startup as long as;

1) there is a sufficient amount of charge in the traction battery. a few bars will do it
2) speed is under TEN MILES PER HOUR

*EV mode works when car is warmed up as long as;

1) see #1 above
2) speed is 25 mph or less


**other commments**
regen on 2010 works at all speeds, including speeds under 7 mph.

the engine is not tied to the heater control as closely as the 2006. i could toggle the engine on and off on the 2006 by simply hitting the defrost button. my 2010 does not do that.

 

Stages of operation for the Gen3 are here thanks Ken1784: http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii...-discussion/76501-gen3-warming-up-stages.html

 

I just did some tests for another topic and this is what I observed:

I didn't notice during engine start as Spartane did but during heavy acceleration (full throttle) at low speed with the battery at 6 bars or over it will draw 120 Amps max, then as the ICE RPM increase the current draw will drop off; under regeneration with the battery down to 3 or 4 bars I have see over 100 Amps going into the battery if you really come down on the brakes. I say over 100 because the ScanGauge won't display more than 99.9 Amps in the charge direction, probably because of the sign bit. When the battery is up to its normal 6 bars I see about the same maximum regen as Spartane does, 80-85 Amps.

I also see 2-2.5 Amps at idle but it can be more or less depending on what is turned on (i.e. heater fan, lights, etc.) with everything off I see around 1.6.

 

No typos; as long as you have the heater system turned off, the engine shuts off at 103F.

When I start my drive in the winter, I try to keep the heater off until the water temperature hits at least 130F. Then I put it on recirculate for 5 to 10 minutes and blast the air on the top setting to try and warm up the interior. During this time, if the outside temperature is sitting at about 10F and if the car is moving slowly through stop-and-go traffic at 1280 RPM, the water temperature stays at about 130F. Within the first 10 minutes or so, the interior is usually warm enough so that I can lower the fan speed down half way. This lower fan speed is enough to allow the temperature to rise to about 136F where the engine can shut off (instead of 148F).

The battery charge may well have exceeded 83 Amps on occasion, but that's the number that I remember seeing most of the time when I did moderate to heavy braking.

While sitting at a stop light during warmup at 1280 RPM idle, it's fairly common to see a persistent charge rate of about 20 - 22 Amps, which gradually reduces to zero as the seventh bar lights up. You can actually hear the gears spin up just before the Scangauge reads the full 21 Amps.

I've seen very brief peeks of about 103 Amps or more from the battery when punching the gas pedal while the engine was already running, but this rarely lasts for more than a second or so.