I have a 2005 with 74k miles on it. Three times now it has given me these DTC in early morning: P0111 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem P2100 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit/Open The car works fine, so I am trying to figure out what would cause these two codes to show up simultaneously in the morning. Thank You, Keith B
Hi Keith, Interestingly, I do not find those exact DTC in the Toyota repair docs. What device are you using to retrieve the DTC? Assuming that the DTC relate to the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body, you might try using MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF, and throttle body cleaner on the throttle body interior and throttle plate.
thanks, that sounds like a good idea, I will try it. I got the codes from "CAN View" that I have installed.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. They were both dirty and are now clean. The codes showed up afterwards but the check engine light did not come on since cleaning. I am confused by "pending" and "latched" DTC codes and which ones will turn on check engine light. Are these three levels of seriousness? Do some clear themselves over time if they don't reoccur while others remain latched? Thank You, Keith
Yes, in the section of the manual where the code is defined, it will give the conditions where the code may be cleared if the fault is gone. Typically it will say something like "Duration = 2 driving cycles" which means that if the fault is not there for 2 driving cycles, the MIL (malfunction indicator light aka Check Engine Light) will go off. Some codes do not have this info.
Unfortunately I am still getting the same codes and check engine light, after cleaning MAF sensor and throttle body. Does anyone have any other ideas to try?
When the car is IG-OFF, can you freely rotate the throttle shaft by turning the spring-loaded shaft with your hand? If not see, if you can clean off the throttle shaft with the throttle body cleaner. If you still have a problem you might have to replace the throttle motor. Or you might visit your Toyota dealer and see what DTC the tech can pull. Maybe that will further narrow down the problem.
Before I cleaned throttle body, there was a little stickiness on ititial movement. I used MAF sensor cleaner to clean the throttle body. Afterwards it moved freely. Maybe I should redo using throttle body cleaner? So different scan tools can get different or additional codes?
Yes, the codes that you retrieved are not "real" Toyota DTC and apparently are an artifact produced by your scanner. The real codes might provide more insight into your car's problem. I think that throttle body cleaner has lubricant in it, while MAF sensor cleaner is not supposed to leave a residue. So you may want to lubricate the shaft with throttle body cleaner. However, if the throttle shaft is freely rotating then a stuck shaft is not the source of your current problem. Maybe you should see what DTC the Toyota dealer tech can retrieve. Then you can decide whether the repair is DIY or not. Good luck.
Make sure all the various connectors around the TB are hooked up firmly -- the MAF/IAT on the front, the TPS underneath, and the wiring to the motor. You should hear the motor PWM buzzing when the car's powered up and the engine not running, and feel it fight you if you try to gently move the butterfly. Try wiggling the motor wiring [there are 2 connectors inline heading to it] while listening carefully to the PWM to see if you hear any connectivity drops. . When you cleaned the TB, did you actually take it *out* of the car [note that there's a coolant loop to deal with] and open it up and fully lube everything? As Patrick notes the shaft and its gearing really needs to not be sticky, and if the car's been in a dirty environment it's possible the little geartrain under the motor housing has gotten dried out / crapped up and wants a little TLC. If nothing else, put a drop of 90-weight gear oil into each pivot point where the shaft attaches to the butterfly and work it back and forth and let it soak sideways into the sleeves. . It is possible to do all this without breaking the coolant loop; you can unbolt the TB and raise it up to the limit of the hoses and it's enough to service. Have a spare gasket on hand if the old one gets ripped up. If you muck with the TPS screws make sure you get the pot *exactly* back in the same position because it does NOT auto-learn. If the paintmarks are gone make new ones. . _H*
Now that Hobbit's entered the fray, take a look at his website where he disassembles and restores to good working order a Prius throttle body: http://www.techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/tb/
Patrick, My 2005 has 450K miles and I now have a P0111 that repeats after clearing it and another code that I did not read. I'm using a GoPoint cable to my iphone and golink app. They list P0111 (FUZZYLUKE.COM) as a intake temp sensor error. I recently had a inverter water pump replaced under recall. Perhaps they did not fully reconnect my temp sensor. I'll locate it and check if signal is open or sensor can be replaced. I do see air intake temperature reading. I'll check out your path as an alternative. Pat M.
There should be no need to disturb the mass air flow sensor when the inverter coolant pump is replaced. You might check the wiring harness connection to the MAF sensor. If it is secure, then remove the sensor and clean with MAF cleaner.
Wow!!!! Please consider posting a quick note for us in the http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-prius-main-forum/79235-299-999-mile-club.html The intake air temp sensor is part of the MAF sensor, mounted on the air intake. Look there for loose/broken/disconnected wires. Or you may need to clean the MAF sensor and the air temp thermistors. Or replace the sensor entirely.