Daox's Enginer PHEV 4kWh install

No that's probably about right (depends on the voltage that the OEM pack is)--it should be putting out around 2.3 kW (10a * 230v) so if you have a 4 kWhr system...

Andrew

 

Hello Andrew,
I am sorry, I have no idea what you are talking about. You statment does not match to the quote from Doax.

Thanks,
Dan Lander

 

I was responding to the last part about the pack depleting over a long period of time...

Andrew

 

Hello Doax,
I would encourage you to get a Clamp-on DC ammeter. Sears has one for $60.

You can see in this image the Ammeter shows 13.78amps. This is a much better way to see when you close to the end of charge.

Thanks,
Dan

 

That's fine for doing a bench test. Do you know of anything that could be used to monitor amps while driving?

 

Hi Andrew,
So you have no way of knowing that Doax's system is outputing 10a at 230v. He has not measured that. I think Doax is indicating that he thinks he may be getting lower output over a longer distance. That may be true but we wiil not know his output until he measures it.

My system is giving 10a at 245v. I will have an idea of how long this will last with-in a day or two.

Thanks,
Dan

 

Hello Doax,
No I do not recommed using a shunt. That requires undoing bolts and cableing. You do not want to do that.

A clamp-on DC ammeter uses hall effect to measure the magnetic flux going around the wire.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...Name=ElectriciansTools&sid=IDx20070921x00003j

Spend the extra $40. you will be glad you did.

Thanks,
Dan

 

I got two similar items from a ebay seller but the ones I got can measeure Current and Voltage. One is 500V and 200A for the DC converter to OEM battery. One 200V and 200A for the Battery to Converters. Both included a 200A shunt. I will post pictures once I install in my car. But using a clamp type meter would not be very ideal for tracking current while driving.

Here is the ebay item I got : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180451161867

 

sorry, it got deleted somehow; let's try again:



-Paul

 

Daox,

what was the cell voltage from each balancer ?

thanks

 

Hi Paul,
I had a similar concept using all of the 3rd balancer.

I guess great minds work along the same path.

Thanks,
Dan

 

Well, this is the real story in battery fuel gauge and does require a shunt(provided) in line, a real electrical instrument. Inclusive there is a version of this meter that will output serial information to a PC if needed. This instrument is a land mark for EVers and is known also as a "E-meter". The Mickey Mouse clamp meter is effective only in bench and stationary and local reading, but some people are purchasing what they can and know. This "instrument" is not cheap but it warrants accurate results.

 

Hi Doax,
I regularly check the balancers during charging. I am seeing one or two cells climbing higher than the others while charging. They can get 200mv out of balance when the charger is pumping 6 amps. Then as the charger curent drops to 3 amps or so the umbalance gets better. Once the charger is off, the balance quickly goes down to 20mv or better. I watched on cell go to 3.72v today and then go back down quickly when the charger stopped.

Thanks,
Dan

 

Dan,

have u wired it up ? did it work ? you mention that you regularly monitor the cell voltage in your other reply; are the cell voltage different between separate balanced pack ?

I hope once Jack & Chargery come up with the new 16-cell balancer, they'll send us some. I also suggested to Jack to automate the top/bottom (charging/discharging) balancing using the DB8. I think he's considering it as he has not responded given that he is usually quite responsive.

ps: not sure if my mind is great, but it works for me. I just have to remember to use it

 

Something new you may want to look into:
ThinkGeek :: Kill-A-Watt Graphic Timer
A Wattmeter Timer