sound system upgrade + custom sub enclosure

Well, not really. All the good sub amps now are mono so they are permanantly bridged if you'd like to think of it that way. They only have 1 channel and are considered D-class instead of a typical A/B switching type amp. This makes them more efficient so you can make big power for cheap. You can no purchase a good 2000w RMS amplifier for $1,000-$1500. That was unheard of back in the day. There are even a few 4,000w amps out there but they tend to be in that $2,500 range. lol

Most good 10" subs today expect about 500w/ea. If your amp can put out 700w+ then you should be ok using two of the newer style 10s as long as you set it up correctly ohm load wise.

 

Well all the work paid off. I went with a "BOSS 800" for the car. I did not want to really see it, just hear it. So I made Aluminum mounting blocks, and Grill Cloth covers for it, and here is the result,



This gives you access to all the controls, and wiring. The Amp itself is bolted down to the cove over the HV battery! It fits PERFECT in this location.



Put the covers back on the Sub, drop the mat back in and it is about as subtle as I can see!!!



It sounds pretty damn good!!! spent about 5 or 6 Pink Floyd songs setting it up...Holy cow my rear view mirror now vibrates and distorts the image!!!!!SWEET!!!

It fills in the bottom end that I thought was always missing!!!

 

KK6PD,

I think it definately looks great but you could be quite a bit louder with more detail by sticking a higher end 10" sub in the cubby and hiding the amplifier in the storage box. You would not lose any functionality of the hatch either. Don't get me wrong, I think what you did looks cool and if you are happy with it then that is all that matters.

 

Thought about that, but all my radio gear is in the cubby. I really dislike the "UberBoom" that some cars I am next to at stop lights put out! I just wanted to fill in the bottom end. This does that quite nicely. I already have hearing damage from high impact noises, Guns, Explosives, and putting myself thru collage mixing sound for Rock & Roll Bands!!! Not to mention all the concerts I have gone to over the last 40 years.

I just wanted a little bottom end fill!!! Ashes system looks great, by the way, nice design, construction. I bet it kicks serious nice person!!!

Folks do not think its going to happen, but someday you will wake up with constant ringing in the ears.
Tinnitus is a BITCH!!!

Thanks for the response!!!!

 

Hey, quick question for all you folks using the rear cargo tray for amps, etc., how have you rigged it to still allow access to the spare tire? Also, with the lid closed aren't amps getting a bit hot in there?
Even the space under the front seats seems risky for heat to me, since the floor heat vents are right there too. Seems like winter driving would be hard on an amp there.
Am I over worried about heat control?

Thanks,
Don

 

I mounted my amp to the floor of the cargo tray with self-stick industrial grade Velcro (4 strips). Since most of the force acting to move the amp has the Velcro in shear, it is quite strong. I can "rip" the amp loose and move it to the little area between the trunk opening and the back seat (sitting vertically), because I made sure all the cabling would allow for that. This, then, gets it free of the cargo tray to allow the tray to be removed for access to the spare tire.

As for heat, the amp I used has a built-in cooling fan. There's enough air circulation down there for the fan to be able to cool the amp (at least there appears to be since I've had no trouble with it). Of course my amp is rather "small" - only 500 W RMS total (75 X 4 + 200 X 1). I'll try to get some pics taken and posted in my picture album.

 

Thanks for that, I was picturing removing the tray with everything in it and plenty of slack in the cabling. Pulling the amp off and setting it aside sure sounds easier. And thanks for confirming the heat non-issue. I won't be going for anything crazy powerful either.
Photos, if you have time, would certainly be welcome!

- D

 

Thanks, I'm considering the PDX-5 as well, tho the $600 entry point is giving me pause. I'm still trying to balance price/performance considerations but I tend to be a sucker for quality in the end. I feel like I'll have to spend a lot on road noise control before I can make a quality sound system worth the cost/effort. Money money money.

- D

 

Yeah, I've seen those deals. I checked with Alpine customer service and they verified that if not purchased from an authorized dealer the warranty would NOT be recognized when making a claim. Authorized dealers all charge $600. I might try woofersetc tho, since they seem to stand by their own 1 year warranty.

-D

 

Ashe,

I'm in Newport too, what shop built the enclosure for you? I'd like to ask them about building one on the drivers side to handle a 10" sub.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

Not sure Ashe still visits here on PriusChat too much. But try sending an PM to him as that goes to the email. Good luck!

 

All very nice, but too much work,
I just bought a second hand Prius with the JBL option with the 7 speakers
I solved the poor sounding audio problem
by inserting an Audio DSP between the analog audio fead between the head unit and JBL amplifier...
My car is rocking and now the sound is full with lots of low end power and nice highs, only have to check the door handles, for I hear them ratlle a bit...
The JBL soundsystem has the quality, but the original factory adjustments
are decided on by a douchebag..

 

That is a very subjective opinion. Midranges (short of a mid-bass in a bandpass) could never put out what I consider "lots of low end power". For those like me a real subwoofer and dedicated amp is required.

 

Just to put this in perspective, "lots" means enough that you can feel your hair moving to the beat from the pulses of air emanating from the trunk.

At half volume. :rockon:

 

Question about location: Installed in trunk under various layers of carpets, covers, papers and groceries, won't a large sub sound muffled?